When we think of pollinators, the first creatures that typically come to mind are bees, butterflies, and perhaps even some birds. However, there is another fascinating pollinator that often goes unnoticed: the soldier beetle (family Cantharidae). These beetles are an essential yet often overlooked part of many ecosystems, playing a significant role in pollination. What Are Soldier Beetles? Soldier beetles are named for their striking appearance. They are usually brightly colored, often with a combination of red, yellow, or orange hues, and a black or dark brown body. These beetles are part of the Cantharidae family, which includes over 3,000 species worldwide. While soldier beetles are best known for their predatory nature—feeding on pests like aphids, caterpillars, and other small insects—they also play a crucial role in pollination, contributing to the health and vitality of many flowering plants. Soldier Beetles as Pollinators Though they are primarily carnivorous, soldier beetles often visit flowers to feed on nectar and pollen. In the process, they inadvertently transfer pollen from one flower to another, facilitating cross-pollination. While they aren't as effective or consistent as bees, their pollination efforts are still significant, especially for certain plants that require insect pollination. Soldier beetles tend to be generalists in their feeding habits, meaning they are attracted to a variety of flowers. This is an advantage when it comes to pollination, as it allows them to visit multiple species of plants in a single day. Some plants, particularly those that rely on a range of pollinators, benefit from this wide-ranging activity. Common flowers that soldier beetles pollinate include members of the carrot family (Apiaceae), such as Queen Anne’s lace, as well as various wildflowers and garden plants. Why Soldier Beetles Are Important 1. Biodiversity: As part of the broader pollinator community, soldier beetles contribute to maintaining biodiversity. Their activity helps ensure that a variety of plants, including both native and cultivated species, can reproduce and thrive. 2. Pest Control: Soldier beetles are also natural predators of agricultural pests, such as aphids and small caterpillars. By controlling pest populations, they indirectly support healthier plants, which may result in increased floral production and, consequently, more pollination opportunities. 3. Sustainability: As pollinators, soldier beetles contribute to the overall sustainability of ecosystems and agricultural systems. Their role is especially important in areas where other pollinators, like bees, might be in decline due to habitat loss, pesticide use, or disease. Soldier Beetle Behavior and Pollination Unlike bees, which are specifically adapted for pollination with hairy bodies and specialized structures to carry pollen, soldier beetles don’t have the same level of efficiency. They are not as reliable in transferring pollen from flower to flower, and they may not collect as much pollen during their visits. However, they still manage to contribute to pollination, especially in gardens or wildflower patches where multiple pollinators are at work. Interestingly, soldier beetles are particularly attracted to flowers with an easy-to-access nectar source. Flowers that are flat or have open petals, such as daisies, are especially popular among these beetles. They tend to visit flowers in the morning or late afternoon when temperatures are moderate, and the flowers are rich with nectar. Encouraging Soldier Beetles in Your Garden If you’re interested in attracting soldier beetles to your garden to help with pollination (and pest control!), here are a few tips: 1. Plant a Variety of Flowers: Soldier beetles are attracted to a wide range of flowers, especially those that are open and easy to access. Consider planting native wildflowers or flowers from the Apiaceae and Asteraceae families, which are popular among soldier beetles. 2. Avoid Pesticides: Since soldier beetles also help control pests, using pesticides can harm them and other beneficial insects. Opt for natural pest control methods to encourage a healthy ecosystem. 3. Provide a Diverse Habitat: Soldier beetles thrive in diverse environments. A garden with a mix of flowers, grasses, and other plants will provide a habitat for soldier beetles as well as many other pollinators. Conclusion Though they might not be as well-known as bees or butterflies, soldier beetles are valuable pollinators that contribute to the health of many plants. By attracting these beetles to our gardens and understanding their role in the ecosystem, we can help support their populations and encourage more natural pollination, which is vital for biodiversity and food production. So, the next time you spot a brightly colored beetle on a flower, remember: it's not just a pest-eater—it's also a pollinator doing its part for nature!

Trying to sow and germinate native milkweed seeds can be very frustrating if not done properly. Many native milkweeds need to experience the conditions of winter and then the warmth of spring in order for them to germinate. Without this cold period, seeds may not germinate or may germinate poorly, so cold stratification is often a crucial step when growing these plants in areas where winter conditions differ from their native habitat. Or, when trying to germinate seeds outside of the current outdoor season. Milkweed plants and seeds are winter dormant. Without experiencing cold temperatures followed by warm temperatures, the seeds will remain dormant. Most native milkweeds require this cold period. Asclepias perennis is one of the few exceptions. So how can we have luck germinating milkweed seeds? The first and easiest option is to collect seeds throughout the summer and then store them in a dark dry location outside. Some people suggest a dark and damp location for milkweed seeds. You can try both, but we have found dark and dry works well better. Asclepias incarnata and Asclepias perennis do generally benefit with some moisture during the cold stratification process. By storing outside, the seeds will experience temperatures exactly as they would had they fallen to the ground. Then, in the spring you can sow the seeds and allow them to experience warmer temperatures in the seed tray or whatever you sow the seeds in. The second option is to mimic the outdoor temperatures by cold stratification in a fridge. This process is what the rest of this forum will be focused on. If you are looking for general information on Cold Stratification, go over to our Forum Category "Questions and Answers" and find our "What is Cold Stratification?" post. Or, you can CLICK HERE. How to Cold Stratify Seeds Here’s a basic step-by-step guide to help you get started with cold stratification of milkweed seeds. *Please note* this guide is based on information gathered from credible online resources. We have interjected our own opinions in as well, typically after the guidance found from the online resources. So, some information may contradict itself. A list of websites used for this information can be found at the bottom of this post. 1. Choose the right seeds for your area: Better results come from seeds that are from native plants found as close to your area as possible. You should at least be looking for an ecotype local to you. That way, the seeds are going to be successful with your area's normal weather, seasons, temperatures, soil conditions, precipitation conditions, etc. We recommend searching in this order: Seeds from plants found in your: Neighborhood County Region within the state State Region within the U.S. 2. Prepare the Seeds: Some seeds need to be cleaned of any surrounding fruit or debris before stratification. Check if the seeds need to be scarified (lightly scratched or nicked) to allow moisture to penetrate the seed coat before the cold stratification process begins. This may be necessary for some milkweed species. We have found that the majority of FL native milkweed seeds do not need to be scarified. There are several recommendations to soak the seeds for 24-48 hours prior to cold stratification. We have not found that this is a necessary step. 1. Moisture and Medium: Place the seeds in a slightly damp material like sand, peat moss, or paper towels. The medium should be moist, but not soggy. For many seeds, a mix of damp sand works well, as it allows air circulation while maintaining moisture. *Please note* there are many gardeners out there who find that they have better germination rates with dry storage instead of damp storage. We recommend trying both and determining which one you have better results with and continue to experiment. Our opinion on the two methods is that Florida typically experiences dry cold seasons and therefore, we generally see better success with dry mediums that we occasionally lightly mist once per week. 1. Refrigeration: After preparing the seeds, place them in a sealed plastic bag or container. Ensure it’s airtight to prevent drying out. This is not necessary for dry storage and we have found that air flow is generally better for most species. A period of 30 to 90 days is typical, but FL native milkweed seeds can generally be ready after 2 weeks. A longer period of 30 days will not hurt the seeds. 1. Monitor Moisture Levels: During the stratification process, it’s important to keep checking the moisture levels. If you notice the medium is drying out, lightly mist it to maintain optimal conditions. This is not necessary for dry storage. 1. Planting After Stratification: After your pre-determined cold period is over, remove the seeds from the fridge and sow them in your prepared soil. Place the milkweed seeds in 1" to 4" deep seed trays or small pots with a medium recommended for the species. For example, swamp (Ascl. incarnata) and aquatic (Ascl. perennis) milkweeds will prefer moisture for germination and overall health. Whereas other species may prefer dry mediums - such as Asclepias tuberosa. Place seeds at the top of the medium filled area and then lightly cover seeds with medium. Some online resources suggest sowing the seeds 3/4" deep. We have found better success with seeds on top of the dirt and only a sprinkle of medium on top. Just enough medium to cover the seed from being exposed to direct sunlight. Watering seeds is best done from the bottom up, if possible. The tray or pot needs to be able to drain, so this can be a tricky process. Germination rates are best if seeds are sown in areas with plenty of sunlight. 1. Germination: Most milkweed seeds will germinate in 10-15 days after sowing. But, they generally can take up to 21 days. If you sow seeds outdoors too early, they may even take up to 45 days. Once seedlings have emerged, you can help retain moisture in the pot with a light mulching. Extra Tips: Labeling: Since many seeds have different cold stratification requirements, it’s a good idea to label each bag or container with the seed species and the date you started the process. Skip the Chill: Cold stratification usually needed for milkweed seeds. You may find that some FL native milkweeds don't necessarily need the cold temperatures to germinate. But, we have found that the germination rate does increase with incorporating it into your process. Experiment: Try multiple methods and see what you find works best. Different methods may work for different regions, even within the state of FL. If you do not source your seeds close to your region, you may have to alter your methods that mimic the ecotype of the seeds you have. Determine Your Sowing Dates Ahead of Time: Find the recommended sowing dates for your region. Then, backwards plan for when you need to start the cold stratification process. For example, if your seeds need to be sowed in May, you should begin the cold stratification process based on the length of of time you plan on using for cold stratification. We have success in Central Florida with sowing seeds in March - May. Seeds can also be sown throughout summer but we recommend no later than August. Plants will need time to establish a healthy root system that will enable to plant to survive dormancy. Protection From Pests: While many gardeners are planting milkweed for butterflies, seedlings will need some protection from butterfly larvae so they have enough time to become established. We recommend protecting seedlings until they are over 12 inches. That way they will likely return from the heavy appetite of butterfly larvae. Other pests include oleander aphids and milkweed bugs. If you’ve had success or failure with cold stratification, or if you have tips of your own, I’d love to hear about your experiences! Let’s chat about all things cold stratification and seed germination.

What is Cold Stratification? Cold stratification is a process used to mimic the natural winter conditions that some seeds need to break dormancy and germinate. Certain plants, especially native species, require exposure to cold temperatures for a period of time before they will sprout. Cold stratification helps to simulate these environmental conditions, making it an essential step for ensuring seed viability. Why is Cold Stratification Important? Many seeds, especially those of trees, wildflowers, and perennials, have evolved to survive harsh winters by going through a dormant period. In the wild, this dormancy is broken when the seed experiences cold, moist conditions that trigger internal changes necessary for germination. Without this cold period, seeds may not germinate or may germinate poorly, so cold stratification is often a crucial step when growing these plants in areas where winter conditions differ from their native habitat. How to Cold Stratify Seeds Here’s a basic step-by-step guide to help you get started with cold stratification: 1. Choose the Right Seeds: Seeds that commonly require cold stratification include those of many tree species (like oak, walnut, and hickory), some flowers (such as violets and columbines), and herbs like lavender. Native Milkweeds and some wildflowers require it as well. Be sure to research the specific needs of the plant you're working with. 2. Prepare the Seeds: • Some seeds need to be cleaned of any surrounding fruit or debris before stratification. • Check if the seeds need to be scarified (lightly scratched or nicked) to allow moisture to penetrate the seed coat before the cold stratification process begins. 3. Moisture and Medium: • Place the seeds in a slightly damp material like sand, peat moss, or paper towels. The medium should be moist, but not soggy. • For many seeds, a mix of damp sand works well, as it allows air circulation while maintaining moisture. 4. Refrigeration: • After preparing the seeds, place them in a sealed plastic bag or container. Ensure it’s airtight to prevent drying out. • Store the seeds in the fridge for a specific amount of time, which can range from a few weeks to several months, depending on the species. • For most seeds, a period of 30 to 90 days is typical, but always check the individual seed's requirements. 5. Monitor Moisture Levels: • During the stratification process, it’s important to keep checking the moisture levels. If you notice the medium is drying out, lightly mist it to maintain optimal conditions. 6. Planting After Stratification: • Once the required cold period is over, remove the seeds from the fridge and sow them in your prepared soil. Ensure you plant them at the proper depth for the species. • Keep the soil moist and warm, and your seeds should start germinating in a few weeks. Tips and Best Practices • Labeling: Since many seeds have different cold stratification requirements, it’s a good idea to label each bag or container with the seed species and the date you started the process. • Don’t Skip the Chill: Cold stratification is vital for seeds that require it. While some seeds will germinate without it, many will remain dormant and fail to sprout. • Outdoor Stratification: Some gardeners prefer to use nature’s conditions for stratification. This involves burying the seeds in a shady, cool location outdoors, mimicking the conditions they would experience in the wild. Cold stratification may seem like a lengthy and tedious process, but it’s absolutely worth it if you’re hoping to grow plants that require it for germination. By providing the seeds with the proper cold and moist conditions, you’re giving them the best chance to break dormancy and grow into healthy plants. If you’ve had success or failure with cold stratification, or if you have tips of your own, I’d love to hear about your experiences! Let’s chat about all things cold stratification and seed germination.